Paris Haute Couture Week

Posted on July 6, 2006 
Filed Under Fashion Week, Paris Fashion Week

Designers offer red-carpet glamour in Paris couture shows

Galliano said he had been inspired by a recent late-night viewing of French director Marcel Carne’s 1942 film “Les Visiteurs du Soir” (”The Devil’s Envoys”), a fantasy tale set in the 15th century.

“Seen through the eyes of someone from a different culture, a different time, almost a different world, the landscapes and people of the High Renaissance seem curiously otherworldy,” the British designer said in a statement handed out to guests.

“The mixed emotions aroused by the film brought to mind the surrealism of Salvador Dali, the religious fervor of Joan of Arc, the anarchic energy of punk rock and the iconic glamour of the golden age of Hollywood, experienced by a stranger in a strange land.”

To emphasize his point, Galliano took his bow in an astronaut’s suit.

On the runway, his freewheeling take on the period produced looks ranging from 1940s skirt suits with matador-style embroidery to a gothic red and black vinyl coat trimmed with monkey hair.

With only a handful of customers left for these made-to-measure creations, which cost upwards of US$10,000 apiece, couture serves mainly as an advertising gimmick designed to draw customers toward more affordable cosmetics and accessory lines.

In the hands of a master craftsman like Galliano, however, it becomes something close to art.

Italy’s Valentino whetted the appetites of the guests at his show with a Russian-inspired collection of opulent evening gowns with gold embroideries that evoked religious icons or Faberge eggs.

A stiff black satin gown that flared out from the bust came with a transparent black tulle bolero glittering with jet beads. The flawless outfits proved why Valentino remains the designer of choice on Oscar night.

Giorgio Armani is another Italian designer who has been dressing stars for decades, but he only ventured into the rarefied field of couture two years ago. His Armani Prive collection has since won over leading ladies from Beyonce Knowles to Penelope Cruz.

For autumn-winter 2006-2007, Armani conjured a soft silhouette by pleating everything from cashmere to python leather and satin.

Skirt suits had a retro feel, with raised collars and bell sleeves accentuating a slim waist. Boxy fur coats in fox and chinchilla added a decadently luxurious touch.

A round of applause greeted a black lace cocktail jacket that dripped with black mink and wolf tassels.

The evening gowns were pure romance, with blush pink organdie shaped into oversized floral whorls and rows of crystals winking from black velvet like miniature neon bulbs.

At 71, Armani has refined a subtle approach that puts the onus on the personality of the wearer.

“I’ve known him for many years,” pop singer Cher told reporters as she arrived for the show. “I love him, and I love the fact that if you bought something 20 years ago, you can still wear it today.” (AP)

Article source: here. Reprinted without permission.

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